Grading Differences.

Posted September 3, 2019 by mistercb
Categories: Uncategorized

Pretend we are back only 100 years and wanted to know the grade of a gemstone. Even a diamond. There would be one grade given. Only one and it would account for all the aspects of the gemstone. Today we grade separately for Cut, Color, Clarity and for some stones we separate these further. The systems used for some gemstones are precise and able to be documented while others are almost gut level grading. Why? Simply put, the ultimate value is based on demand. And that… changes.

The changes in grading have made it tend to be more scientific. Though the courts still hold that it is subjective.We try to put some absolutes on it so that it can be defined and understood. However explaining it is like being on a switch trail that zigzags it’s way to the top.

So today while the primary value of a diamond is based on its weight and the beauty cut can provide, the value of most colored stones such as a sapphire is mostly based on color and weight. Color in a sapphire depends on the purity of color (tint), the density of the color (saturation) and the the darkness (tone) of the stone. A blue sapphire with a pure blue without black, gray, yellow or violet and saturate, with about 85% tone would be the ultimate in color.Some gemstones are based on size, translucence and color such as Jade.

Confused? to really get the best for you or the rarest, or the most beautiful see an expert. No risk to you… but definitely worth the effort.

I will be in Antwerp on September 11th. 2019 If you have any diamond desires especially for fancy shapes or colors please let me know. It is always better to be able to look through large parcels to pick out the best one for you.

Charles Beaudet

 

Do you live in the moment?

Posted June 22, 2019 by mistercb
Categories: Uncategorized

I  was asking a diamond dealer how much his pink diamonds were in small sizes standing next to a gentleman who was looking at slightly larger sizes. When he answered I had to ask if his pink diamonds were naturally pink.  He said “For that price no!”.I then ask if it was coated. It was… with a thin enamel. The jeweler next to me with wide eyes said loudly” You mean these are all treated ?” He went off to tell someone and I thought to myself, “What if I hadn’t ask in front of him?” The dealer rolled his eyes and said,”The jeweler who buys a diamond for a ridiculous price must know there is a reason”. I ask what he thought the customer would feel. He said “The jeweler should tell them but remember “The customer lives in the moment.” he said. His idea apparently  was that the customer got what he wanted for the price he wanted to spend. He concluded ” He’s happy! It’s a foolish salesman who says you cannot get what you want for your price.”

Really? I wondered how may jewelers bought without asking or knowing. Maybe they thought they got a good deal. Was the customer supposed to know? Currently synthetic diamonds are being sold as a good deal and more ethical. I do not see either of those as being true. They do not contribute to sustainable economic development in underdeveloped countries. The more durable ones require vast amounts of energy for high pressure and high heat development. This also goes for some treatments of what were natural  diamonds. On top of that they cannot hold their value. All other synthetic stones  such as ruby, sapphire and alexandrite dropped considerably  in cost as production increased. Diamonds are being made for industrial purposes in computers, lasers and even nail files. They have already come down over 20% and will continue to fall as production increases. De Beers has stated that the cost should be based on production  costs rather than on a percentage of natural diamond prices. They are ramping up manufacturing in Portland Oregon and we know prices will comedown with their production. 

   So should the jeweler ask? Should they know automatically? Or do some just want to hide behind ignorance and blame the manufacturer for all problems. Just sell for the moment and the customer will be happy. I do not believe it do You?

Long time!

Posted June 11, 2019 by mistercb
Categories: buying diamonds, diamond grading, Diamonds, Eugene Jewelers, Gemstone and diamond buying, Jewelry and design, Jewelry industry, Travel, Uncategorized

So much has happened since 2015. The latest is that the store is now located at 987 Garfield, still in Eugene. I am trying to spend less hours at the store and more hours producing. We have expanded the shop and there will always be a goldsmith or two or three here for you. Andrew is running the front of the store and Jen is managing the shop.

What has remained is that I still go to Antwerp for those special buys on larger and fancy shape diamonds. ( I will explain why here shortly) I also still have my friend who is a cutter in Sri Lanka so I am well below market on Sapphires and have a very good selection. I also am at the store by appointment for custom jewelry and appraisals.

It has been 26 years that my friend in Sri Lanka have known each other, so you can imagine how worried I was after the Easter attacks on his street in Columbo. He and family are fine. He takes the attitude that if it was his time it would have been what is intended.

When he came that first time to the Tucson show, he was alone. They gave him showcases and told him where to find lighting and left. I saw him standing there totally perplexed. The show had been opened for over two hours and he had partially set up his gemstones but then realized he could not leave his booth to get lighting, Even if he put his gemstones back in the bags he could not carry several duffle bags around and get the lights. Also he had no locks. What I saw was a gentleman with his hands up and his mouth open. I looked at his gemstones and ask if there was a problem. He explained his dilemma with a wry smile. He even had forgotten where they said the lights were. I went and checked with a few booths where they had gotten their lights and went off to fetch them. The person who was there saw I did not have the correct badge on to retrieve the lights but for some reason believed my story. He sent someone over to the booth and got my friends permission to give me the lighting. The person helped me carry four poles and six lights back to the booth. I helped set it up and then bought over $12,000.00 worth of sapphires. It is not a good show to me without seeing his   warm smiling face. Other than me, he now deals only with suppliers who purchase considerably more. I am thankful to have him and his son and daughter as friends.

Antwerp has suffered a lot since I was first going there in 1995. The number of cutters has dwindled to a precious few hundred. Yet it is still the diamond capital of the world. The reason is the Kimberly Process which guarantees the legitimacy of the supplier and source, uses the vast knowledge and security available in Antwerp to sort and distribute the diamonds. Fine cutting still takes place there but diamonds cut in India also pass through there as well as South Africa and Botswana. When I need an extremely well cut round diamond I have a number of sources that have bought from the suppliers in Antwerp and many are as picky as me. However when I need a fancy shape diamond, the problems are multiplied dramatically.

Diamonds have a grain like wood and stones cut off grain are considerably more likely in elongated shapes such as marquise and pear-shape. Cutters hate wasting material and will cut these shapes when the shape of the rough suggests it. Like wood it is much more durable when the grain is straight across rather than on any angle. Cutter tend to thicken the girdle (the midpoint between top and bottom) to help prevent chipping which adds weight and can take away brilliance. Diamonds also have knots which can be tight knot or loose knot ,again like wood. There are also other durability concerns that need to be discovered before I will purchase a diamond for my customer. These are not part of grading but can affect the price of a diamond by up to 40%. When I am I am in Antwerp I can look at dozens of diamonds in any size to find the best one. A home I pay shipping and insurance for every stone I look at. Since most suppliers only have one or two in the range of what I want it can be expensive and frustrating for me an them.  For fancy shapes I definitely prefer buying in Antwerp.

As you can see much has changed and much has remained the same. Please come by the new location and say hi!

Charles M Beaudet

Posted August 21, 2015 by mistercb
Categories: Uncategorized

Ophelia’s Place Design Challenge

Cast your vote!

Once again Beaudet Jewelry is proud to announce the third annual Ophelia’s Place design challenge.
We are asking you to help choose the winner of this fun competition and pick your favorite jewelry design. The winning design will be created by master jeweler Charles Beaudet and will be raffled off at the Ophelia’s place Gala
About the design challenge. 
For the third year in order to raise funds for this amazing facility, Charles Beaudet has met with these amazing young girls to teach them about design and nurture creativity. The girls then draw up designs inspired by precious stones that we provide. Designs were chosen that fit the criteria of budget, materials, and complexity,  and it is now up to you to decide which design will be created. The finished piece will then be Raffled off and all the proceeds will go to Ophelia’s Place to help insure they can continue to make big changes in young girls lives.
About Ophelia’s Place
Ophelia’s Place was created to provide services that intervene at an early point in a girls life, giving her an opportunity to develop supportive relationships and strengths that will lead to her long-term well-being. Early interventions can help prevent tragic and costly outcomes such as domestic violence, low educational achievement, early pregnancy, or drug and alcohol abuse.
Visit Ophelia’s Place http://www.opheliasplace.net

Here are the designs for the third annual Ophelia’s Place design challenge. The designers number is placed just above the picture.

Design #1
DSC_0171

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Design #2

DSC_0172

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Design #3

DSC_0173

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Design #4

DSC_0174

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Design #5

DSC_0176

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Design #6

DSC_0177


Design #7DSC_0178


Design #8

DSC_0179


Design #9

DSC_0181


Design # 10

DSC_0182

Thank you for Voting!

Ophelia’s Place Design Challenge

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Diamond terms that confuse

Posted October 22, 2014 by mistercb
Categories: buying diamonds, diamond grading, diamond terms, Diamonds, Eugene diamond, Eugene Jewelers, Gemstone and diamond buying, Jewelry industry, Uncategorized

After spending years learning the technical jargon around diamonds and jewelry The world has spun around enough that most of it has changed. Unfortunately a lot of that change is misplaced and that makes for more confusion not less. The fact that most diamond shoppers go on line to places that are selling diamonds to get their information instead of the independent laboratories, empowers sellers to twist the terms to their benefit. As an example I will use one term I was surprised that so many people came in to my store using.
Scintillation :
Originally scintillation was the flash of light coming off the polished surface of a diamond when you moved it in a strong light, like the flashes off water or the twinkle of a star. It’s even more like that spinning mirrored ball hung over dance floors. We used this to describe the look of a rose cut diamond which had a flat back. More facets and a better polish meant better scintillation.
Then as rose cuts were no longer popular we added that scintillation included the flashes off the inside surfaces as well. This seemingly logical inclusion set up the basis for confusion.
Since brilliance is measured by the amount of light that enters the crown and table of a diamond returning to the viewer through the crown and table gemologists mostly ignored the addition.
Does scintillation include brilliance or take the place of brilliance? Gemologists want to ignore scintillation as it is an effect of movement which has too many variables. Brilliance is measurable. Sales people however use the term scintillation freely while twisting and turning the diamond to prove it has the right stuff.
When I talk about a diamond’s cut I talk about the stone’s proportions, symmetry and polish. I used to say the Proportions equal the brilliance, the symmetry equals the fire and polish equals the scintillation. But now it’s generally just too long of an explanation.

A busy month for donations to great causes.

Posted October 16, 2014 by mistercb
Categories: Donations, Eugene Jewelers, Jewelry and design, Uncategorized

The Ophelia’s Place necklace was not the only donation since the final days of September.

The  100% donations were to important causes in the community. The total value of the four donations was just at $10,000
Here are the final piece photos2014 rotary duck race $5000 Opera posterdsc_0264

Ophlia2014

Latino Heritage Night donation Oct 2014

Posted October 9, 2014 by mistercb
Categories: Uncategorized

dsc_0264.Sunstone and a half carat princess diamond. The square (diamond) inside a circle represents the Earth.

Here it is warmed by the faciful rays and colors within the 3carat 9mm Oregon Sunstone. Designed by Charles Beaudet.